I use notepad as well, and Fireworks, but my site isn't heavy into graphics. Fireworks is great though. Dreamweaver I never caught on to and the old issue, never got the new one, adds a lot of extra stuff to your code.
You'll want to learn CSS at any rate. Two sites I used for this are:
W3Schools Online Web Tutorials everthing there is free and it has tuitorials and a neat section for trying stuff out, it also has Html and XHTML.
Second one I used a lot is:
HTMLSource: HTML Tutorials another real good one.
It's not as hard as it seems at first. Really if I can learn it, anyone can
